Brovary: birthplace of my grandfather
Ukrainians are literally the most helpful people I have ever encountered. They are helpful to the point of being intensely annoying. I took the train to some town and then had to switch to a bus to get to Brovary. I asked some person if I was waiting in the right place for the bus to Brovary and ended up being offered a lift with her and her boyfriend who happened to be going that way.
Once I got there, I went to a market and asked if people spoke English — "Vy gavarite pa angliski?" — until I found some older woman who nodded at me. "I'm looking for the Jewish quarter," I said. She looked confused. "My grandfather -- dyeduska, yes? Born here, 1894." I write it down: "Jewish dyeduska, 1894". She and her friend excitedly chat and then motion for me to follow them. I try to say I just want directions, but they drag me off... to the local museum. I repeat myself to the man there. He knows nothing, doesn't understand, is closing for lunch. They drag me from place to place. I keep trying to say "Never mind, I'll find someone who speaks English" but they finally drag me into the back of some clothing warehouse where a 19-year-old son of a friend speaks great English. I explain what I want, he translates for the women, they all chat excitedly and then he tell me they're going to take me to the Town Hall where there's an office for people to trace lost Jewish relatives. "I just want to know where the old Jewish quarter is!" I say. I just want to walk there. Don't worry, he assures me. They'll know that too.
We troop off the the Town Hall. The people there try to get all the details of my grandfather's family. Once again, I explain I just want to know where the old Jewish quarter was, I don't care about specifics right now. They tell me they don't really know, but the park across the way used to be a Jewish cemetery. Great, give me directions to that then? No, too simple. They close up the office (!!) and three of the public servants troop off with me to show me the cemetery.
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^^ Brovary market |
^^ A very Soviet-looking park in Brovary |
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| ^^ The old Jewish cemetery, now a park. | ^^ My grandfather had a sister who died when she was one. Perhaps her body is under here somewhere? |